Thursday, February 21, 2013

Double Offset Shelf Bracket


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After I built my under shelf parts storage drawers, I wanted to replace the shelf bracket that I took down while mounting the drawers.  I had not taken the existing shelf bracket into account when I designed the drawers, so this would now require a custom shelf bracket.  I wanted the new bracket to fall at least roughly in the same location as the old one, so I decided to have it connect to the bottom of the T-bracket in between the two drawers to support the shelf at that point.  This location fell a little less than two inches to the right of where the old bracket, and hence the stud inside the wall, was.  So I needed a bracket that was offset horizontally.  But the drawers also have only about a 1/4 inch clearance between the backs of the drawers and the wall.  So the vertical piece of the shelf bracket would not be able to run all the way up behind the drawers, as it wouldn't fit in that clearance.  So you could also say the shelf bracket needed to be offset vertically as well.

I came up with a simple, if strange bracket formed from two pieces of scrap pine.


The two pieces are joined with a mortise and tenon.  I usually form the mortise first and then make a tenon to fit, but for some reason I did it the other way around this time.  I made the tenon on the tablesaw.  I first cut the shoulders using the rip fence as a guide.



I then cut the cheeks with the piece on end.  This picture is only for demonstration and the saw is off; when I cut this for real I use both hands.  One hand holds the piece against the fence, and the other holds it down and presses it through the blade.


I trimmed off the excess from the area that becomes the vertical offset, and laid out a curved shape by tracing an old round food container in 3 different positions.



I cut the curve roughly at the bandsaw, then sanded to my line on the drill press with a sanding drum.




I then formed the mortise in the vertical piece.  I drew the mortise out in pencil, then drilled a series of overlapping holes at the drill press with a forstner bit.

I used a chisel to smooth the ridges in between the holes and square up the ends.  Usually I round the ends of the tenon to match the rounded hole left by the drill bit, but this time I didn't for some reason.






 I drilled a couple of pocket holes with my Kreg jig to attach the shelf bracket to the T bracket of the under shelf drawers.


I glued up the mortise and tenon.  You can see from the back that it's a pretty good fit, despite the fact that it was made quickly and hand fit.


Here is the bracket installed.  Mission accomplished.


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